It is oft debated what is the best way to tie a bowstring loop. In this article we tackle several different variations and discuss their advantages and disadvantages.
Everything expressed here is through my own experience and some influence from others. If you have a different variation or opinion, feel free to comment and I’ll update the article as appropriate.
For instructions on d-loops, visit the “How to make and tie d-loops” article. For instructions on torqueless loops, visit the “How to tie and install torqueless loops” article. To see an instructional video on how to tie in nock sets, visit “How to Tie a Nock Set Using Serving Thread.”
D-loop with no serving
This is the simplest and easiest variation to tie, but it also gives the least amount of options. It is simply a d-loop tied onto the string without any other serving or nock set.
Advantages:
- simple
- requires minimal skill and work
- can be moved up and down string with little effort
Disadvantages:
- can cause nock pinch which can possibly lift or knock the arrow off the rest
- if it has to be replaced, there is no location marking once it is removed
- susceptible to torque
D-loop with single, lower nock set
This version takes the basic d-loop and adds a lower nock set, either tied or brass. With the large d-loop knot on top and the served nock set on the bottom, there is downward pressure put on the arrow nock. Great for shooters using a launcher style rest or anyone else who would like a little arrow pressure put on rest and popular with target shooters.
Advantages:
- downward pressure on arrow, arrow rest
- can replace the d-loop while leaving nock set to locate arrow nock, only have to set top knot location
Disadvantages:
- takes more work to locate nock height
- susceptible to torquing the bowstring
D-loop with upper and lower nock sets
This would be my favorite of the variations using the standard d-loop type. It has the least amount of interference with the nock with drawing and shooting and is very easy to replace in the correctly location since the nock sets don’t have to be removed.
Advantages:
- least amount of nock interference
- easy to remove and replace at proper location
Disadvantages
- slightly more weight due to longer loop
- most work of any to tie and locate
- susceptible to torquing the bowstring
Torqueless loop with upper nock set only
The torqueless loop is a more recent style of loop used that hasn’t gained a lot of attention yet. The idea is to have a loop that can be twisted in any direction without applying torque to the bowstring. More about these loops, how to tie and install them can be found in the torqueless loop article.
This version is the simplest of installation methods, with a simple, upper nock set and the torqueless loop below.
Advantages:
- lightest weight of any loop version
- easily replaced, even in the field with no tools
- maintains location of nock set
- torque free
- extremely long life if tied correctly
Disadvantages:
- cannot be used to align peep unless tied in
- can sometimes migrate up and down the string and must be reset
- lowers the anchor point
- cannot be use with some pin nocks (they will pop off)
Torqueless loop with upper and lower nock set
This is my current favorite method of tying a bowstring loop. With an upper and lower nock set, the arrow nock position is positively located. A couple of tied knots below the loop keeps it from migrating down.
Advantages:
- torque free
- easily replaced, even in the field with no tools
- positive arrow nock location
- does not migrate
- extremely long life if tied correctly
Disadvantages:
- cannot be used to align peep unless tied in
- most work of any to initially setup
- lowers the anchor point
- cannot be use with some pin nocks (they will pop off)
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{ 12 comments… read them below or add one }
I appreciate this information. I have read about the catfish torque-less tie prior to this article and have wanted to try it. I get hung up on the idea of the pull below the arrow. I think it is more a mental thing to me in thinking that the arrow should be centered between the pulling point giving equal pull on the top and bottom of the arrow. Do I understand that the traditional D Loop in fact causes the arrow to be pinched unless there is a nock set separating the upper and lower portion of the D Loop? Dos the lower pull have any other negative affect to arrow flight other than having to change the sight due to a new anchor point? And finally, the Catfish will require that the Peep will have to be adjusted and served in straight with the draw. Is that difficult? Just curious…I would like to try this new loop with the nock sets. Thanks again!!
Kevin, If you use a standard d-loop with no nock set at all, it can pinch the arrow nock and may cause it to come of the rest or be inconsistent. Not always, but I’ve seen it happen quite a bit. Using the torqueless loop will most likely change your anchor-to-peep (and thus the sight) relationship; it will also cause some pin-nocks to pop off due to the string angle. Other than that, I have found only benefits to using them. You can use the torqueless to align the peep a minor amount if you serve it in. I personally prefer them as loose as possible and will align my peep properly to begin with. Very soon I’ll publish an article on peep alignment.
Thank you again. Do you prefer the Tied Nock Set for that reason, ie. pin nocks popping off? Do you only tie the Catfish with .022 serving or do you have any other recommendations? I will look forward to the peep alignment page. This discussion catapults me into questions concerning that part of the set up with the new loop. Thanks again for all that you do for this sight. I have really enjoyed it.
I prefer tied nock sets because they are lighter and more customizable. With a torqueless loop and tied nock sets, pin nocks can still pop off. If you want to use pin nocks, Beiter has an option that should work fine (though I haven’t tried them myself yet.) The reason I use the .022 Brownell Crown is because it was one of the options I had laying around when I started and it works the best of any I have tried. I have not tried the Crown in .026 or .018 yet. The Crown is also the most durable serving I’ve tried.
I’m sorry, I was confusing the pin nocks with the nock sets in my last post…my ignorance. Ive never used pin nocks before. I think I will stick with post nocks for now, assuming you have not experienced any problems with them. I will get some .022 and give it try. Thx.
Kevin, good luck to you; if you take your time and build the loops right, you’ll enjoy them!
I love the torqueless catfish loop. Learned it on your site, and that article and video was why I started following your blog. Recommend anyone to learn to tie a catfish d-loop.
Hi Michael, I appreciate the high quality articles on your blog and you have now convinced me to try out a Catfish bowstring loop.
Do you know if Brownell Diamond Back serving in .022″ would work about as well as Brownell Crown for the Catfish loop?
Rolf, I have tried the Diamond Back serving and was not happy with it for this application. It’s great serving overall, but for making loops I found it to be overly abrasive and because of the way it is braided it did not tie up as nice.
Thank you for the insight, Michael – I’ll get some Brownell Crown
I have been practicing the torque-less loop and am pleased with my results; enough that I have now installed it on one of my bows. My concern is how much downward pressure it seems to be putting on the arrow at full draw (the pinch between the nock-set and the top portion of the loop specifically). I drew back with just a post nock installed on the string and could really see how much the angle of the string comes into play. Although; I can see why that would not matter when the arrow leaves the string upon release, but is there any concern about the pressure at full draw? Or, is my upper nock-set too close to the loop? I gauged the distance based on your installation video (well done). I like the look and the feel of the new loop. It fells more substantial and independent than a typical D Loop. I would also add that I like the size of the final loop and that it seems to maintain is size, as I am not a fan of the typical torque-less loop or big DLoop that seems to stretch out too much. I would like to make this work. Thanks again!
Kevin, since I made the installation video I have switched to putting about two turns of the serving string between the top of the nock and the loop for space. I have seen any performance difference to speak of, but like you, I didn’t like that much pinch. A little downward pressure can be a good thing and using tied nocks helps keep it from being excessive. I’ll eventually redo the video to reflect this change and improve the quality.