Helical vs. Straight - back view
One debate that comes up periodically is whether to use straight fletch, helical or straight with an offset. This especially comes up when shooting broadheads or long distances under adverse conditions. I have played with all sorts of different ways of fletching arrows but up to this point hand never done any in-depth testing up until now.
In the past I have had the same arrows fletched with a helical and with a three-degree offset in the same dozen and never really saw a difference. However, I had never tried a straight fletch but have heard of many claims that they fly just fine, even with broadheads. The most common reason for choosing straight is that they, in theory, should fly faster because there is less air resistance and energy is not lost to spinning the arrow.
This first article will deal with just the accuracy and repeatability of straight vs. helical, whereas another article will deal with the speed issue in the near future. I have the speed data collected, it is just going to take a while to get it sorted out and correctly analyzed as there is a boatload of it. I also collected data across differing weights of arrows.
Helical vs. Straight - top view
The first task was to fletch some arrows with both straight and helical fletchings. I chose to use the venerable Blazer vane as it is probably the most common vane in use today and something nearly everyone can relate to. My fletching tool of choice is the Bitzenburger fletcher which as served me well for many years. The clamps use are the standard right helical and straight clamps.
Too make sure that it was possible to see any accuracy differences, I did the shooting from 40 yards. The test bow was my Elite Envy set at 60 lbs. and 29.5″ draw length. For this testing standard field points were use. The target is a standard FITA target, though printed with three faces on one piece of 8 1/2 x 11″ paper. At the time of the shooting, it was overcast, but there was little to no wind.
The results after 23 shots with each (yes, 23 is an odd number but the rain really started coming down at that point!) are shown below. It looks pretty obvious that while both shot consistent patterns, the helical held a tighter pattern and overall was much more accurate and repeatable.
Helical vs. Straight at 40 yards
The difference in this particular test is that with straight fletchings, approximately 1/3 of the shots scored in the 10 ring and with the helical slightly more than 1/2. There are several shots in the red with the straight and only one with the helical (which I’d like to blame on the mosquito making a meal out of my forehead on that shot!) Both patterns are very consistent with no real abnormalities so I believe this test to be valid under these shooting and equipment conditions.
In my experience, shooting under adverse conditions and at longer ranges, or using a broadhead, will almost certainly make any difference in performance more exaggerated. I can imagine that with a broadhead difference in pattern size would be more pronounced, though I would like to do separate testing to confirm this.
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{ 45 comments… read them below or add one }
Nice post. I can only back-up anecdotally from my own experience trying straight, offset and right helical w/ offset. I currently shoot out to 60yds (target, not hunting) and have arrows fletched all 3 ways. I use a 2011 PSE EVO set at 60#, 28.5in DL, QAD HD Pro fall-away rest. My arrows are 420 grains, 8% FOC, field tips and 4in Duravanes spaced at 120 degrees. I consistently get tighter groupings at all ranges w/ the helical w/ offset, but especially at the longer distances. While I don’t have access to a chrono, the helical w/ offset are certainly slower than the straight as their impact is 8in lower than the straight if aiming the pin at the same point of reference. However, I prefer the accuracy/repeatability of the helical over the faster speed of the straight. Only one word of caution to those that decide to try helical w/ offset…get gear to start fletching your own arrows if you do not have it already. The helical w/ offset will have a larger profile when viewed from the nock, and if you have tight groupings you WILL start shooting holes in the fletching of the arrow previously shot if shooting at the same “X” spot. If shooting a 5-spot, you’ll be fine. Plus, you get the added bonus of getting your arrows set up the exact way that you like without having to wait on a shop to get to your order.
It’s a good point you make that helical fletched arrows are more prone to getting hit by other arrows. I certainly would not make the decision not to use them because of that, but it is always nice to be able to do your own repairs.
When you say “helical with offset”, do you mean that you are using a helical clamp and adding additional offset to curl them around the shaft even more?
Indeed. I use a Bitzenberger w/ Right helical clamp and set an additional offset such that the ends of each vane is roughly at the left and right lateral margins of the shaft (if viewed from above). Depending upon the length of the vane used, the degree of offset will be more/less pronounced. For my 4in Duravanes, there is less offset because the vane is so long. I also have other arrows fletched w/ 3in Norway Fusion vanes, and the degree is slightly more aggressive. Should one try using a 2in or smaller vane, the degree of offset will be even greater (but the shorter the vane, the “stiffer” it is…just like shortening your arrows results in an increase in its spine…and the shorter vanes may not adhere to the shaft of the arrow at the tips of the vane if a very aggressive offset is used). Results in a very nice spin to the arrow, and if you look at the arrow straight at the nock, it will resemble a boat propeller. I’ve never used the QuickSpins, which reportedly induce more spin without using an offset or a helical clamp; though I’ve heard of several shooters that really attest that they work well, and they only have to use a straight clamp and save money on buying by not buying the helical clamp.
sir i really dont understand your test on fletching. by the looks of your testing, i dont think that was a good representation of accuracy …at 40 yds u dont even need fletch to shoot like that..not bashing just think it was not a good example to use
ed, perhaps you could clarify you comment. I’m not sure if you don’t think the shooting was good enough to show accuracy (sub 4″ groups at 40 yards) or if you can’t see the difference in the patterns. And you don’t think that you need fletchings to shoot that well at 40 yards? What do you use yourself?
I have to respectfully disagree. The majority of hunters will (or should) be making their kill shots within 40yrds, so this is a real-world scenario test. If the distance is moved out to 60, 70, 80+ yrds then the actual performance of the archer comes into play more the fletching correction. It can be extremely difficult to launch 50+ arrows (for 25 arrows from each group) from greater than 50yrds without getting such muscle fatigue that it is all but impossible to keep the pin as stationary on the target as necessary for tight groupings. While some may then suggest a Hooter Shooter for the test, unless the shooter can be perfectly still with no movement between shots it will result in variance just like a fatigued archer.
Fletching is to correct for the imperfections of the archer’s form during the shot and stabilize the arrow accordingly during flight. I have no doubt there are archers out there that can shoot out to 40yrds with bare shafts and have amazing groupings. To all of you…I tip my hat to you and perhaps one day I may be as skilled to do the same.
Cheers.
all im saying is that to use the same set up for both fletchin is ridiculous…accuracy is based on set up and tune..you may get close but accuracy is based on proper execution and set up. with all things being equal,no wind rain or other influences accuracy is not negated by either fletching…speed will be affected but not accuracy..i shoot high country machined supreme i built and tweeked 60# 29 draw 1814 special tipe with 2.5 flex fletch. mini g nok and the accuracy is with 2 degree offset with baswe ft to rear split on the offset..was not bashing just want people to know YOU MAY OR MA Y not be able to use same set up thats all im saying..sorry anyone took offense
ed,
No offense taken, just good discussion
Perhaps we take a different approach to setting up our equipment. I use the type, style and method of fletching to improve my accuracy. Once I have my bow/accessories together and my arrow shafts selected, I then experiment with shaft length, point weight, fletching type and configuration to arrive at the most accurate solution. In this case, the straight fletch was less accurate. I am not sure how I would tune my equipment to shoot better with a straight fletch and I don’t see this as a good approach.
BTW, both of the arrows in this test tune perfectly through paper and shoot that same spot as bare shafts at 20 yards.
How would you personally change your setup to accommodate shooting a straight fletch? As I read your post you are inferring that if you wanted to shoot straight fletch that you could change other factors to make them more accurate. If this isn’t the case, please clarify. Thanks!
possibly we are saying the same or similar thing…yes fletching does not___ make a difference as to accuracy.I was under the assumption a release is being used it tne tests.a perfect bullet hole does not ALWAYS mean a bow is tuned.the best i can explain is sometimes u need a laaunch type rest sometimes a shoot thru and sometimes a drop away in order to make tight groups.cant exxplain why but sometimes you HAVE TO change, in ordere to get __tight groups.in the tests i saw i assumed you only shot the arrows without re tuning the bow (possible interference wwith fletching on the rest)BTW were fletching tested same length, /?
Saying fletching does not make a difference to accuracy is incorrect. The purpose of the fletching is to stabilize the flight of the arrow. Try throwing a football w/ as little spin on it as possible; it will not “cut” through the air as well, will start to wobble and not travel as far or as accurately as one that has been thrown with a tight spiral. Alternatively, place 3 fletching on an arrow but at vastly different lengths and degrees of offset…the arrow will leave the bow “true”, but the irregularities of the fletchings will make the nock end of the arrow kick all around and overall accuracy will not be as good as the arrow travels downrange. In the latter scenario, it would be better to have no fletching than irregular fletching. Shouldn’t have to re-tune the bow during the testing as there wasn’t that many shots. Want to compare 500 shots to 500 shots…then maybe; and have a good massage therapist on-hand after launching 1000 shots. But after only 50…shouldn’t be necessary. Otherwise we’d be tuning our bows all the time. A consistent archer can have good accuracy even w/ a bow completely out of tune…the arrow won’t fly as fast, and it won’t make bulletholes on paper-tune, but an out of tune bow is not different from shot-to-shot. Once the archer quickly learns how he/she needs to correct his/her aim for the performance of the bow, the accuracy should be the same. If the timing of the arrow rest is off, then certainly accuracy can be greatly diminished; if the powder testing doesn’t show any fletching contact, I’d probably scratch that off of the list.
The fletching is just like the stabilizer, the release, the rest, etc…all of those things give us very minor corrections in accuracy for the flaws in our form, but the meat-and-potatoes of accuracy comes from the archer’s ability. All the money in the world spent on accessories for a bow will not make an archer an “accurate archer;” each one merely improves the accuracy and precision incrementally.
i missed the point- this is- bowhunting- not target.****** .IF*****….. that may be considered tuning…. ** I guess…and that was what i was saying**,..MYbad..by the way, extensive testing on shaft rotation was done and a tubular shaft rotates through the air, its just a ballistic phenomenon..articles are published on this article by NASA engineers..How much rotation i personaly dont know.that *******..IF***fletch clearance IS. tuning.. .i assumed you werent using a drop away rest, that would change my questioning the**** re -tune*** if all things were equal. please let me know what rest type was used.. thanks
Here are some more details (perhaps I should add them to the main articles as well):
The fletchings on both arrows are identical, minus the color and the fact that they are fletched straight vs. helical. The rest is a Limb Driver drop-away and slow motion video shows that there is no rest interference. Since the arrows in each control group are exactly identical, they have the same FOC and dynamic spine. All arrows not only paper tune well, but they shoot the same as bare shafts out to 20 yards. All arrows were shot with a Carter “Hammer” release using my Elite Envy bow.
The object of the test was to take identical arrows and fletch them with two different fletching configurations, straight and helical, and compare their accuracy. There is enough of a difference in the testing groups that I believe, in this case, the fletching style did indeed affect accuracy.
Even with good form and a good release, human error can and will introduce small variations in how an arrow leaves the bow. Causing an arrow to spin, in theory (yes, real physics theory!) imparts more stability to the flight of the arrow. My conjecture, without further evidence (yet) is that the stability of the helical fletched arrows did show an improvement in overall accuracy. I have read of several anecdotal testing by several different people, many of them accomplished archers, that have found the same thing though they didn’t have data sets like I am attempting to gather. I really can’t wait to further try this testing with broadheads and see the results there.
ed, do you have a link or access to the NASA testing you reference? I would be really interested to read about their findings. I don’t have the greatest high-speed camera, but I am tempted to take these same arrows and shoot them through a slower bow and see if I can capture some decent footage of their flights.
we now shoot boatail sharpnosed bullets thru rifled barrels not round balls thru plain barrels when we plan on hitting something right ? in fact all measure is approximate correct, catch the drift, or windage as u may call it
The problem i have with these test is the bow is shot in the hands of an archer , with that there may be any amount of variable that come into play , e.g – was it simply a case of the first 23 shots not being as good as the next 23 , was it a case of subconciously the archer is thinking – well this test has been done before and the results were …….. so mine is likley to be …….
Is it possible to use a hooter shooter or other refined methods to elliminate more of the variables ?
Bruce, you could use a hooter shooter, but part of the issue is that humans introduce error into the shot that the fletchings have to correct. I would like to do the test with a shooting machine as well, but at this time do not have one.
For the shooting, one of each arrow was shot each end, not 23 of one then 23 of the other. This was done to try to eliminate any factors such as fatigue.
Testing like this is definitely very difficult. There are many variables and controlling everything is nearly impossible. I don’t pretend that this particular test was perfect, and I would like to do more in the future.
while using hlical fletched arrows do I have to use a drop away rest or biscuit rests? or are they also useful with conventional rests like trophy taker launcher rests?
Ugur, You can use practically any rest with helical fletched arrows. As long as the nocks are lined up properly and you have good clearance.
I enjoyed this article quite a bit. It seemed a straightforward and methodical test.
I found it helpful though my methodology is much simpler, and not so gear reliant
I enjoy the many thousands of years of archery’s history and find the time honoured and proven simple wooden bow and matched arrows to be all I need
I make my own wooden selfbows,longbows and recurves, ranging from 38-55 lbs
I shoot off my hand,instinctively, and my bows are not center shot, and my wooden arrows are spined to bend around the bow in the classic archers paradox
I personally found that helical fletching helped my accuracy noticably
I had been using a homemade fletching jig that could fletch straight or with a slight offset,which worked well, but when I got lazy recemtly and purchased some ready made woods with 5″ helical shield cuts I noticed quite a differance.
I’ve ordered a fletching jig with helical clamps. I’ll keep my old one for flu flus
I’m glad you enjoyed it. I’ll be doing more detailed work in the future that will build on this. For this article I had to make it very gear dependent so that the results could be compared. Recently I picked up a recurve and have been having a lot of fun shooting it, but only with the arrows that came with it. I have yet to experimenting on fletching setup with that bow, but it promises to be fun!
I enjoyed this article very much. I am a new archer (2month newbie). Picked up a bow for the first time in Texas (Feb 2012) and bagged a hogg. Now i’m hooked to say the least. Got home and picked up a Z7 and some factory fletched arrows (straight). All i have is 20 yards to shoot at and i “robin hooded ” my first arrow w/straight fletched blazer vanes. The groups have been very tight & i’ve been damaging vanes. Thinking of buying my own equipment to repair arrows and ran across this article. After reading everyone’s comments i am leaning toward a right helical for long range accuracy, plan on using ez fletch jig. Thank you very much for everyone posting comments. This article truly helped me make a decision i have been grappling w/for a few days.
Aaron Rueb, welcome to the archery fan-club. It is definitely addicting. I’ve been doing it now for ~3yrs and I can say you will achieve even greater fulfillment by working on your own equipment. Repairing your arrows is a good place to start, and with time consider getting a bow press and start “tweaking” as well (nice article on “ArcheryTalk”; search for “Nuts and Bolts”). One note: statistically I take it that you are right-handed. Note that the Right Helical is only for those that shoot right-handed. If you shoot left-handed, you will need to use Left Helical. I use a Bitzenberger jig that works well and a friend of mine uses the ez fletch jig and loves it. Note that if you are damaging vanes now with straight fletching, you will do so even more w/ the helical is it gives a broader cross-section of the arrow for possible contact. If you are shooting that well at 20yds, I’d recommend getting yourself some 5-spot targets and shoot one arrow at each spot; can’t damage vanes if your not aiming for the same spot every time.
Thanks for the feedback! I plan have a set of straight fletched for 20-30 yards & a set w/the right helical for 35-60. We’ll see how that works for now!
I read something about nock alignment w/helical fletching. I know this may be a newbie question & the wrong place to ask, but can someone please elaborate on that. I plan on fletching with a right helical. How should the nock be aligned? A photo would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, i see the picture above, but i can’t really tell from that pic. Plus i have an untrained eye!
The nock alignment more depends upon the type of rest you use. If you use a drop-away rest, it probably won’t matter much. In general, you want the cock vane (the odd-color-out vane) to be facing perpendicular and away from the string and handle (in the case of right-handed, then it should be at the nine o’clock position when looking at the back-end of the arrow). I use a drop-away rest and have the cock vane in the 12 o’clock position and it does fine. Note that Blazer vanes are a little taller than others, so make certain you don’t have vane contact with your brace or rest housing.
@ docarcher,
Thanks for the input. I currently shoot em’ at the 12 o’clock w/a drop away and no problems as of yet. I also have a question that you might be able to help out with. How long should i have my arrows? I have a 29″ inch draw and currently shoot 29.5″ carbon-carbon. I see that the front of my arrow (carbon) is past my riser and my buddy tells me to have em’ cut an inch past my rest. He claims, shorter is faster! I may go up to a 29.5″-30″ cam in the near future and don’t want to cut to much off until i get my draw length dialed in to my liking. What is a good rule thumb for choosing arrow length?
I got spine sizing down from manufacture recommendations nothing on length that i could find.
Length of your arrow is mostly determined these days by the position of your arrow rest. In general, when at full draw you want an inch or 1 1/2 inches of arrow out past your rest. The true litmus test is to have the broad head that you plan on using on the arrow and make certain that you have full clearance of the blades at full draw from the riser. If you are using a flat, broader broad head you will likely need to have the front of your arrow about one inch in front of the riser to get proper clearance. If you use a low-profile or mechanical then just in front of the rest should be fine. I would suggest putting on a broadhead and pull to full draw, then have your buddy mark a line on the arrow shaft with a Sharpie where you want the new end of the arrow to be (have him stand to the side if he’s a good friend, or in front of the arrow if he still owes you money). Then measure from the throat of the nock to that line and round up to the closest inch. Your buddy is right that shorter is faster, simply by having less mass. More importantly, shortening your arrow will increase its spine (make it stiffer) as well. Some folks use an overdraw system that brings the rest farther back towards the string, so they can use a very short shaft of extremely lighter-weight arrow (so that the bow can shoot much faster) and the shorter length gives just enough extra spine to make the arrow still safe to use in their setup (lighter arrows will always have a softer spine). If the arrow’s spine is too low it will flex a great deal on the shot and could contact the riser upon release, simply “wobble” too much in flight for extreme precision, or worst case scenario the shaft could break and send part of the arrow into the back of your bow-holding hand (choose wise, Daniel-son). The charts put out by manufacturers don’t say spine plainly, but you have to infer it from the data presented. Once you know what length arrow you want, look at the chart and assess any extra variables (ie, speed came), then look at your draw weight and scan over to the length arrow you measured. The chart will give you recommendations for arrows that have the proper spine. If you notice that if you adjust your draw weight up or down slightly and that puts you in a different arrow recommendation, then you may be able to select the lighter arrow but cut it slightly shorter to compensate with the spine (just make certain you don’t cut the arrow too short, else it will not sit on the rest at full draw and you will have wasted a good deal of money.
Make sure your draw length is right for you. We would all like the most power in the arrow, but the 30 inch draw length by which the IBO ratings are measured are unrealistic for most hunters. I’m 6ft 1in and my DL is 28.5. That being said, my arrows are 27 inches in length.
geez u write too much
@ docarcher,
Thank you for the all information. As for now, i think i’m going to leave things alone. Just “robin hooded” another arrow today @ 20yards (2 in the same month). Not bad for a 3 month newbie! I shoot about 10 -20 arrows per day. Now it looks like i’ll be shooting 8-16 til’ i pick up some more arrows. lol. After reading this article, i look forward to fletching my own arrows w/ my own variations and see what results i get. Thanks again for your all you help doc and a special thanks to Michael for taking the time to do the experiment & sharing the results with us.
dude arrows arethe bomb u guys rock we go fishing and coon snaggin all the time man dog we coo make shure u bring ur walker coon hpund man out later
BOD to the bone marrow you guys are monsters if you get a chance go coon hunting!!!!!make sure you have your walker dog !!!!!
Who is this blake chase kid, man he is stupid this is archery report not life story.com
For real big eye joe whos this dumb blake chase kid? i bet he diont know how to fish or hunt. IM real expericnced and man i pop people who think theyre good at fishin n huntin.
Youll get beat up chase kid
hey,u go possum crappie huntin you just catch coil spring traps all afternoon and hang rabbits from a conibear trap
i love bowcoonin
my ole experiances with the switchback are awesome the thrill of coonhuntin with the k-lights and bawl of the walker hound and skinnem em out in four minutes i love whitetail hunting the thrill of the big buck under the stand and missing him i love hott chicks on campus!!!!!
blake chase yu dont know what your talking about
u cole guy is dumb quit posting dumb stuff and messing around like children this is a hunting blog for adults!!
this bow has great composition and form and dosnt wobble when you shoot it, i recomend it for youths strating out
Aaron,
Strong work on the groups, as well as fetching your own arrows! Much cheaper and rewarding to do it yourself. I’d say you are ready for some field archery competitions this summer with that type of accuracy.
Grant, sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I didn’t get that deep into it. I just bought the right helical pro model and started sticking things together! I read the package that the ez fletch came in and there is nothing specific to the degrees in which they are set other that setting up a 4 vane or flu flu setup. I sent an email to the manufacturer to confirm before i responded and still haven’t heard back from them. I’ll call tomorrow and see what i can find out.
Thanks for the encouraging comments! lol
Since my last comment i feel i have learned a little bit more about the mystical flight of the arrow. I currently use 4″ Quickspin vanes set with a right helical & love em’! I use the Arizona EzFletch jig & it works fine. Have to do a little prep to the vanes with tape to prevent glue leakage getting on em’ & i also spray the jig w/Pam cooking spray to prevent the arms from “gumming up” and it works great.
I now achieve 1-3 inch groups at 60-80 yards. Still a little low/left at 90-100 yards but, still on the paper with tight groups. Shooting the Monster Chill now @ 70lbs w/28 in draw. Arrows are a/c/c pro hunters cut to 28″ w/125 grain tips & a tommy hogg/5 pin sight. I have to say, i love the new set up but, do miss the Z7 a lil’. I would like to thank Doc & Micheal for the comments & article once again.
Hey aaron, at what degree is your easy fletch set at, I know there is a few different settings. I have a 4 degree and it seems a bit much but I am going to shorter vanes. Hopefully this will help
Grant,
I finally got around to calling Arizona Ez Fletch and was told “they are what they are!” Great customer service huh! He did mention that the old tools did have the degree of fletching on the package. I must have the new version of the tool because there isn’t any indication as to the degree of helical on my packaging. Good Luck!