Comments on: DIY: Lifetime Archery Target

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 22:23:48 +0000

chris, I keep my covered with a tarp at this time. Eventually I plan to build a roof over the whole thing, but that’s a project that keeps getting delayed! On occasion it has gotten wet, but a decent sunny day takes care of it pretty quick. In the past I have used different plastics/shrink wraps and the biggest issue I had with them is that some would melt and/or stick to the shafts. I was constantly cleaning stuff off of the shafts and am much happier with the fabric now.

By: chris

chris — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 21:46:06 +0000

Any issue with the clothes getting wet and moldy??? It looks as if your back is open and I would think the clothes would be a problem. Do you have yours under cover or is it not an issue? And also what do you think of the shrink wrap material instead of clothes?
I am just rounding up my supplies for one of these and great plans!
Thanks

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:56:40 +0000

James, I have found that my daughters’ bows will sometimes bounce off, but most often they will stick fine. Even my son’s bow at 40 lbs maybe have an occasional bounce out, but even down to 20 lbs they stick most of the time.

For the depth I still prefer 12″, especially with my heavier, higher-penetrating hunting arrows. It’s tough to stop my Easton ST Axis arrows and I have to re-pack the material every now and then to keep things tight. Even my lightweight 3D arrows that are fatter will often poke out the back if I don’t keep the material packed well. I think you could get away with 10″ if you pack it tight and keep it that way, but I’d still recommend 12″ if you can do it.

By: James

James — Mon, 30 Jan 2012 17:24:01 +0000

Great plans, thanks for the information! Two quick questions… Would this target work well with low poundage bows (25lb-35lb)? Do you think the arrows would stick well? Also, after shooting at it for a while, do you still think it needs to be 12 inches deep, or would 10 inches work?

By: Mike Hofer

Mike Hofer — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 21:24:34 +0000

Thanks for the great instructions. I have been looking all over the place for an inexpensive target. I can’t wait to get it built and start shooting at it.

By: AK0tA

AK0tA — Sat, 19 Nov 2011 22:31:52 +0000

I have not shot for 5 years and decided it was a great time to get back to business. I purchased a new bow “Hoyt Alphamax 32″ and the shop who set me up has 3 of this style targets. 5 feet high by 20 feet wide. I was skeptical at first but now after using the range for weeks I decided to build one just like it. The version I built is very similiar to your plans. 95% of the time the wire is never hit and when it does it deflects slightly to the side. Thanks for the plans and easy to follow instructions.

By: bow shooters!

bow shooters! — Thu, 13 Oct 2011 00:06:09 +0000

[...] found plans on the internet to make a better version that is better built and will last longer. DIY: Lifetime Archery TargetGA_googleFillSlotWithSize("ca-pub-3927874040083090", "FirearmsTalk_300x250", 300, [...]

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Mon, 29 Aug 2011 03:24:24 +0000

The chicken wire has never done any damage to my arrows. Because you are shooting with steel points, the points will hit the wire first (when they do at all) and deflect the arrow off to the side slightly. Every once in a while you may hit a wire direct enough, and I just periodically trim these off so there are no “pokies.” Eventually the chicken wire will have to be replaced.

By: Tim

Tim — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:17:00 +0000

Did I miss something about removing the chicken wire? The only reason I’m asking is because this is a wonderful target design, but wouldn’t you have an increased risk for damaged or broken carbon arrows?

By: Scott

Scott — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 13:39:53 +0000

Nice write up! Loved the design. I’ve been wanting to build my son a target and you’ve provided the final pieces! I plan to use the frame design filled with layers of dense straw rugs (from garden ridge) with a couple of layers of the weed stop material between them. I also plan to build a 1×1 subframe behind the main frame, hinged at the top with a chain stay on the cross member. I like the wire also.. However, to prevent sagging, i think i’ll put a couple of wood rods vertically in the back. I think drilling through the top and half way through the bottom of the frame to allow the rods to spin would go a long way. Can’t wait to get started! Thanks again for posting you knowledge!

By: dustyvarmint

dustyvarmint — Wed, 11 May 2011 23:16:00 +0000

I’m glad you did the updated write up. Planning to put one of these together soon.

happy hunting, dv

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Sun, 17 Apr 2011 20:35:06 +0000

Greg,
It’s great to hear that you got one built and are using it already! Hopefully yours will bring you as much shooting and fun as mine had.

By: Greg

Greg — Sun, 17 Apr 2011 01:37:51 +0000

Wow, I built one today and got out to shoot it. This thing works…very well. It is straight forward to build, even got the kid’s involved.

As long as we can hit the target there will be no more lost arrows. Thanks for the step by step instructions and pictures, they went a long way to describe what you built here.

Thanks again, it’s a long way to bow season but this is going to pass the time nicely.

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Sat, 16 Apr 2011 13:00:25 +0000

The plastic mesh has been tried by people before with mixed results. The two biggest issues are that it will bulge and stretch more when pack the clothes in and that it will get shot up by the arrows and have to be replaced more often.

By: waz

waz — Sat, 16 Apr 2011 04:13:46 +0000

do you think a plastic mesh would work better than the wire or no difference.

By: Judith Bolenbaugh

Judith Bolenbaugh — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 17:22:51 +0000

Excellent, thanks. Nice design.

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 16:52:19 +0000

If you look at the first image with the exploded view of the parts used, you can see it there. I should add a finished photograph that shows it better.

By: Judith Bolenbaugh

Judith Bolenbaugh — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 16:43:12 +0000

Ach, I see. There’s no pic in your tutorial that actually shows the full view with the cross beams, so that was throwing me off.

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 14:31:25 +0000

Judith,
It’s actually very stable with the cross beam feet on the bottom. You can make them as long as you want depending on where you are placing the target. If I were to place it out in the open with lots of wind, I might make the feet a little longer.

I would not take my version to events as it is quite heavy. With the 2x12s and 3′x3′ face, that’s a lot of stuffing inside! Eventually I plan on making a smaller, portable version that will probably use 2x10s and be 2′x2′ and without the taller legs. That should make it about a third of it’s current weight.

By: Judith Bolenbaugh

Judith Bolenbaugh — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 14:15:25 +0000

What keeps it from falling over with all the arrow force? It seems kinda high to be balanced that easily on 2x12s. It also looks like it would weigh a ton and not be easily transportable for events?