Comments on: How to Tie and Install a Catfish/Torqueless Bowstring Loop

By: Luke Terry

Luke Terry — Sat, 03 Mar 2012 18:21:59 +0000

I wanted to thank you for putting this information out there. I recently got a new set of strings on my second-hand Monster. It’s always been a little wonky about having consistent peep alignment.

It turned out one of the limbs was weak, and it was replaced when they put the new string on. I won’t go down that road, because it involves cam lean and a lot of other technical details that aren’t relevant.

So on my new string, I was having trouble getting the peep aligned, and I really didn’t like the D loop that was put on by the shop, though they did a marvelous job and the strings are beautiful.

Long story short, and to focus on the catfish loop–I knew that I was having trouble isolating the forces involved. I didn’t know how much the d-loop was actually pulling the peep’s alignment, for better or worse, so I decided to eliminate that possibility all together. So I removed the D-loop, tied in a knock set per your other instructions, and did the catfish loop tied in below the lower knock.

Lo and behold, the peep has actually been much better behaved than normal, and I think it’s because it’s not getting pulled around by the d-loop. I do use a big honkin’ billet aluminum peep, and counter-intuitively, it’s much easier to tune without the pull of the loop. I’m just getting her sighted in, and she needs more shots through it to really settle the string and peep. I expect to have some good accuracy data on the catfish loop in a few weeks, but so far I love it!

Cheers,

By: How to: properly align a peep sight in the bowstring | Archery Report

How to: properly align a peep sight in the bowstring | Archery Report — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 05:11:07 +0000

[...] as it will self align every time. Don’t know what a torqueless loop is? Read the “How to tie and install a torqueless bowstring loop” article.” Not sure which loop style to use? Check out the “Bowstring [...]

By: Bowstring D-loops, torqueless loops and their variations, advantages and disadvantages | Archery Report

Tue, 03 Jan 2012 16:58:34 +0000

[...] The torqueless loop is a more recent style of loop used that hasn’t gained a lot of attention yet. The idea is to have a loop that can be twisted in any direction without applying torque to the bowstring. More about these loops, how to tie and install them can be found in the torqueless loop article. [...]

By: How to: make and install a d-loop

How to: make and install a d-loop — Sun, 18 Dec 2011 04:14:17 +0000

[...] all torque to the bowstring, especially if you use a hand-held release, you might want to consider using a torqueless loop instead of the standard [...]

By: 300 days to 300 – Day 112 update

300 days to 300 – Day 112 update — Sun, 17 Apr 2011 03:44:51 +0000

[...] Ultra Elite again and got it tuned with new strings and swapped out my traditional d-loop for a torqueless loop instead. This required a switch from pin nocks to uni-bushings and nocks. The small, short [...]

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Tue, 28 Sep 2010 02:41:17 +0000

Grant, “accurate” is such a subjective term! Either way of using the loop can be beneficial to 3D accuracy because both will help eliminate any torque at full draw. I personally have begun to like the smaller loop that sits below the nock. The reason is that I can get a shorter loop (I’m not a fan of long loops and where they cause me to anchor, but this is a personal choice) and less weight on the bow string. However, the disadvantage is that for people that have a high anchor it may force there sight to low. I personally have a fairly low anchor, bottom corner of my jaw, and I can shoot this way just fine. I encourage you to try both styles and see which suits your anchor/shooting style the best and pick that one.

By: Grant

Grant — Sun, 26 Sep 2010 09:07:22 +0000

THANKS For those videos Mike. Its good to see somebody taking the time to show others how to do these things. Mike what would be the most accurate D loop of the 2 for 3d archery? Thanks again Grant.

By: Dave Greenway

Dave Greenway — Fri, 17 Sep 2010 16:49:11 +0000

This particular line is “TufLine XP”. It says it’s an Advanced Multifilament braded line so I don’t know if it’s kevlar or other – I do know that it’s difficult to cut with my good fly tying sizzers. It is pricey if used for serving IMO and I used it only because I had some left over from my re-spooling. My D loop came appart because I didn’t have a large enough melted end. It’s a really good case in point that I draw with the arrow pointed to the ground about 10′ in front of me when the loop let go. PS, for serving – have you ever tried a fly tying serving tool? Cheeper, smaller and IMO much easier to work with. I also use a fly tying tool for the loop that I think you refer to as your return loop.

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Wed, 15 Sep 2010 20:37:59 +0000

Dave, I’m sorry that I did not see your first comment and answer your question. Putting the loop below the nock will definitely have a large affect on the impact of your arrow and result in having to move the sight quite a bit. This is because it changes the relationship between your nock point, the nock of the arrow and the peep sight. Fortunately you seemed to have figured this out, adjusted for it and had good results! I have never had a normal d-loop fail, thankfully, and using this type of loop now hopefully I never will.

What kind of line was the halibut fishing line? Braided kevlar or spectra or similar? I have a few different versions of braided kevlar but haven’t considered using them for loops, but rather just fishing! Interesting idea though; I might have to experiment with them.

By: Dave

Dave — Wed, 15 Sep 2010 20:30:34 +0000

Well I guess I can answer part of my own question.
Unsing the below the nock method resulted in:
first shot at 20 yds was at least 12-14″ low.
I moved my sight rail up about 8 incriment lines to get it back on target. (I use a limbsaver 5 pin). Once I was back on at 20 I went to 30 which was dead on and then to 40 where I was about the same as previously. Before making the switchover I measured my pattern doing 30 yds with 30 arrows. I had all 30 within a 6″x3″ area and 27 of the 30 within a 5″x2″. After making the loop change over, I reshot the 30 at 30 and got a 5″x3″ with 26 of the 30 within a 4″x2″. So I did end up seeing an improvement. Plus, the loop will not fail. In the past I have had a (1) “D” loop come appart on me while at about 3/4 draw. ALSO, I like the fact that the new loop keeps it’s shape. My D loop use to torque on it’self and end up in a twist.

I only had .018 thread so I used some 80# halibut fishing line that looks only slightly larger that the .018. I did the 7 raps and then used the .018 for serving. It miked the same thickness as my bow string when done.

I like the results and will stick with it until the end of hunting season when I might give the straddled loop a try.

By: Dave

Dave — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:13:22 +0000

This along with tying in the peep will make a big improvement on my bow. I tied my peep back in (wrong) after the first 7 shots out of the shop. (But at least my tye in kept it in place). Thanks!

What are the pro’s and con’s of straddled vs below the nock?

By: Brad

Brad — Mon, 02 Aug 2010 14:14:12 +0000

Sweet… cant wait!

By: Michael Larsen

Michael Larsen — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 21:01:40 +0000

Brad,

The video on how to put it on your bow will be out shortly! I’ll demonstrate multiple ways it can be used.

By: Brad

Brad — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 20:59:15 +0000

oh, and thanks for this, by the way… cant wait to try it… if I can ever figure out how it will go on the bow.

By: Brad

Brad — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 20:58:24 +0000

ok…. 2 things…
1. how would I go about tying this to my bow…? Ive never used this type of loop before, and Id like to give it a try…

2. if you were to do this on a bigger scale, this would actually make a good target finger sling.