Using a Catfish, or torqueless bowstring loop has a lot of benefits and is very versatile. Because of the nature of the loop it is virtually impossible to impart torque to the bowstring and bow through the release. There are infinite angles to hold a release at and the loop shown here will ensure that none of them will cause any undo stress or twisting to the string.
This first video takes a look at one way to tie the loop. The nails in this version are 2 1/2″ apart and the loop is intended to be used under the arrow. If tying a loop that is to be used by straddling the nock, I use nails that are 2 3/4″ apart. Depending on the thickness of the serving used, different numbers of loops will be needed to get the desired thickness. My favorite serving has become Crown Serving by Brownell in .022″. For this serving, I use 6 total wraps for a thickness of 12 total strands.
Here are the measurements I have been using for a loop that is done on 2 1/2″ nails. The loops are just over 3/4″ on each end with a little under 1″ of wrapping down the center.
This next video shows how to install the loop using two different methods. The first is placing the loop under the nock and can be done without removing the bowstring. Secondly I show how to install a loop that straddles the nock by removing the bowstring.
Here is a finished loop with a nock set tied above the nock, the string loop below the nock, and a bit more of serving under the loop to keep it from traveling down to bowstring.
There are other methods of tying the loops as well. It is possible to tie a loop that straddles the nock without removing the bowstring by tying the loop onto the string directly; it’s also and option to serve the loop into place to keep it from rotating around the bowstring and aid in aligning the peep.
I personally prefer to have the loop loose on the string. The advantage of this method is that it is the most torque-free and has the least chance of interfering with the string position at full draw and through the shot. However, it will not aid in aligning the peep. Rather I prefer to get the peep aligned perfectly by tweaking the string twists slightly and/or swapping string strands across the peep. Of course this requires that you have a bow press handy and is not an option for everyone.
I am currently working on a more elegant way to tie the loop without using knots, but I need to do some thorough testing on shooting one until I will be satisfied that is it a safe and stout method. Check back to see the (hopeful) improvement!
Why Use a Catfish or Torqueless Bowstring loop?
There several good reasons to use a this type of loop over a standard loop as well as a few disadvantages:
Pros:
- No knots to come undone
- Does not place any torque on the bowstring, no matter the release position
- Virtually indestructible
- Easily field replaceable in certain configurations
Cons:
- Takes time and practice to learn to tie properly
- Rotates about string freely, cannot use to pull peep into proper position
I’ve had several people ask me to make loops for them and I’ve done it on an individual basis (if they asked nice!) and have decided to keep some on hand for anyone that wants to try them. They are $5 with free shipping and you can order them here:
Buy Torqueless Loops
Proceeds will go to buying more and different materials to experiment on making them with, and maybe even colors in the future!
Other posts you may enjoy:
- How to: make and tie a d-loop
- Bowstring D-loops, torqueless loops and their variations, advantages and disadvantages
- Review: Extreme Bow Strings
- Archery Tips 4 – Bowstring Twisting
- How to Tie a Nock Set Using Serving Thread
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{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }
ok…. 2 things…
1. how would I go about tying this to my bow…? Ive never used this type of loop before, and Id like to give it a try…
2. if you were to do this on a bigger scale, this would actually make a good target finger sling.
B~
oh, and thanks for this, by the way… cant wait to try it… if I can ever figure out how it will go on the bow.
Brad,
The video on how to put it on your bow will be out shortly! I’ll demonstrate multiple ways it can be used.
Sweet… cant wait!
B~
This along with tying in the peep will make a big improvement on my bow. I tied my peep back in (wrong) after the first 7 shots out of the shop. (But at least my tye in kept it in place). Thanks!
What are the pro’s and con’s of straddled vs below the nock?
Well I guess I can answer part of my own question.
Unsing the below the nock method resulted in:
first shot at 20 yds was at least 12-14″ low.
I moved my sight rail up about 8 incriment lines to get it back on target. (I use a limbsaver 5 pin). Once I was back on at 20 I went to 30 which was dead on and then to 40 where I was about the same as previously. Before making the switchover I measured my pattern doing 30 yds with 30 arrows. I had all 30 within a 6″x3″ area and 27 of the 30 within a 5″x2″. After making the loop change over, I reshot the 30 at 30 and got a 5″x3″ with 26 of the 30 within a 4″x2″. So I did end up seeing an improvement. Plus, the loop will not fail. In the past I have had a (1) “D” loop come appart on me while at about 3/4 draw. ALSO, I like the fact that the new loop keeps it’s shape. My D loop use to torque on it’self and end up in a twist.
I only had .018 thread so I used some 80# halibut fishing line that looks only slightly larger that the .018. I did the 7 raps and then used the .018 for serving. It miked the same thickness as my bow string when done.
I like the results and will stick with it until the end of hunting season when I might give the straddled loop a try.
Dave, I’m sorry that I did not see your first comment and answer your question. Putting the loop below the nock will definitely have a large affect on the impact of your arrow and result in having to move the sight quite a bit. This is because it changes the relationship between your nock point, the nock of the arrow and the peep sight. Fortunately you seemed to have figured this out, adjusted for it and had good results! I have never had a normal d-loop fail, thankfully, and using this type of loop now hopefully I never will.
What kind of line was the halibut fishing line? Braided kevlar or spectra or similar? I have a few different versions of braided kevlar but haven’t considered using them for loops, but rather just fishing! Interesting idea though; I might have to experiment with them.
This particular line is “TufLine XP”. It says it’s an Advanced Multifilament braded line so I don’t know if it’s kevlar or other – I do know that it’s difficult to cut with my good fly tying sizzers. It is pricey if used for serving IMO and I used it only because I had some left over from my re-spooling. My D loop came appart because I didn’t have a large enough melted end. It’s a really good case in point that I draw with the arrow pointed to the ground about 10′ in front of me when the loop let go. PS, for serving – have you ever tried a fly tying serving tool? Cheeper, smaller and IMO much easier to work with. I also use a fly tying tool for the loop that I think you refer to as your return loop.
THANKS For those videos Mike. Its good to see somebody taking the time to show others how to do these things. Mike what would be the most accurate D loop of the 2 for 3d archery? Thanks again Grant.
Grant, “accurate” is such a subjective term! Either way of using the loop can be beneficial to 3D accuracy because both will help eliminate any torque at full draw. I personally have begun to like the smaller loop that sits below the nock. The reason is that I can get a shorter loop (I’m not a fan of long loops and where they cause me to anchor, but this is a personal choice) and less weight on the bow string. However, the disadvantage is that for people that have a high anchor it may force there sight to low. I personally have a fairly low anchor, bottom corner of my jaw, and I can shoot this way just fine. I encourage you to try both styles and see which suits your anchor/shooting style the best and pick that one.